Irreversible

We're well aware that the frequency of blog posts isn't what you, our readers, would like to see. But for those of you who are climbers, you can understand the problematic opposition of blog posting and "perfect conditions". Our first weeks here were full of zero degree weather, without any humidity. Very sticky. Which meant that everyday was a climbing day. But now spring has arrived and we'll try to get you some more photos:

The last of the cold days was spent at Maunoury. Hidden behind the more obvious Dame Jouanne, this area features good warm-ups and a few classics like the striking "Irreversible".

Courtney slapping for (far away) slopers on "Oasis".

The Beta debate on "Irreversible". As Kevin noted, "with this type of problem, everyone is very polite because no one wants to go first".

Ingar scoping out the long reach on Irreversible.

The "videographers": Patti and Virginie, spectate.

Following Fabian's send, Ingar and Tim both top out this bold star line.

Week One

So, we've been in France for almost a week now.  Notables from this past week:

• Freezing cold, dry weather
• Chausson aux Pommes
• Tim and Scott crushing boulders left and right
• Livarot

I must admit, this weather is pretty nice for climbing.  Coming earlier, does have some disadvantages, however.  For instance, three nearby bakeries have decided to take their winter vacations at the same time, namely, right now. This is classic:

Here's my crude translation:

Open EVERY DAY from 7:00am to 1:00pm, and 4:00pm to 7:30pm

Sundays from 7:00am to 1:00pm

Closed Wednesday afternoons and Thursdays

(Then a note about their winter vacation).

So the "every day" hours apply for roughly 57% of the days of the week.  I've even started a google calendar to track these things.  The climbing has been fantastic, notable sends being Scott's ascents of Big Dragon and Misericorde, and Tim's flash of L'Arrache Coeur.  Photos have been a bit sparse; today maybe we'll have some more.  In the mean time, here's a link to some that I uploaded to Facebook.

Here's some of the fun wind we've been experiencing:

Xynthia from Ingar Shu on Vimeo.

Tempête Xynthia

We also happened to arrive during the worst storm to hit France in over a decade, dubbed Xynthia. All of the information billboards on the autoroute said "demain: risque du vent violent," and they weren't kidding.

That tree on the ground there behind Patti is a big sucker, probably over 50 feet tall, and was uprooted by the high winds.

The storm brought some rain, so we headed out to the quick-drying Apremont for a re-introduction to Bleau climbing. Gregoire and Kevin were there to show us some true classics I hadn't seen before, including Les Yeux, and L'Arête du Boucher.

Ahh, France

Every year, France is different, but somehow the same.

Our Air France flight on Friday plunged us into the most venerable of French traditions, the labor strike.  While two of them affected our transatlantic journey -- an Air France pilots' strike, and a French air traffic controllers' strike, Air France decided that all of its long haul flights would proceed. So after pulling into Terminal 2 next to Air France's HUGE Airbus A380 (this was a highlight for me), we enjoyed a leisurely stroll through Charles de Gaulle, with no crowds.  Unheard of.  With no lines at the usually hectic, elbow-jostling immigration line, the officer didn't ask any of the usual questions -- how long are you staying, where are you going to stay, etc.  After I offered my passport with a "Bonjour!", the only question he asked was, "You speak French??"  He then stamped my passport and I was through in about 5 seconds.  I still don't know if he was making some sort of joke.

This is the essence of our France trips, year after year.  Frustration, delight, language confusion.  Oh yeah, and the other thing that happens every year.. climbing!

After stopping at the ATAC for some supplies, and dropping off our luggage at the gîte, we were informed that our friends were conveniently located at the nearby Petit Bois.  We joined them for some company, after which, we enjoyed our first dinner in France:

A selection from the charcuterie, boulangerie, and fromagerie for dinner.. what could be better?